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We may be in a trend of fancy restaurants serving fancy burgers. Or maybe they’ve always served them and what was once just an option for kids has been elevated for adults. Either way, it’s a good look. The best burgers I’ve had this year did not come from classic burger joints. I love classic burger joints. I wish there were more classic burger joints. But fancy burgers in nice restaurants is pretty good too.

Chef Michael Bonk is having fun with burgers at BLT Steak. He’s also using the word burger loosely.

There four burgers on the BLT Steak Burger Board: Salmon Bama Burger, Harissa Lamb Burger, Duck Double, and The “American” Wagyu Burger. One can argue two of these are not burgers.

The Salmon Bama Burger consists of a Scottish salmon patty, chicken fried smoked salmon, slaw and Alabama white BBQ sauce. This is not a burger, at least according to me and Oxford. Doesn’t matter. It’s where Bonk is having fun. If you’re a fan of seafood, it’s worth ordering.

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The other questionable burger is the Duck Double. Made with two dry-aged beef and moulard duck patties, double cheddar, pickles and sauce mary rose, it’s more of a burger due to the patties but also worth debating because what is dry-aged beef doing with duck? This is the kind of burger I will never make at home and definitely order at a restaurant.

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The burger I want to try to make at home is the Harissa Lamb Burger. With a seven-spice lamb patty, tahini cucumbers, tomato and garlic labneh, it’s the the spiciest and has the most unique flavor profile of the four.

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The costliest, and most like a Shake Shack burger (this is a good thing), is The “American” Wagyu Burger. Wagyu beef is Wagyu beef, you know if you like it.

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Bonk is making burgers that’ll make you want to eat more burgers. With Labor Day passed and summer finally ending, BBQs are less often. But the burger craving remains. The BLT Burger Board will satisfy that craving. Unless you just order the The Salmon Bama Burger. That’s not a burger. That’s a quality fish sandwich. It ain’t a burger.

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