Words By Priya Konings, Photos By Jeff Martin
If you have ever tasted Aaron Silverman’s food, you won’t be surprised when you see his new restaurant. It’s just like his food: impeccable to look at, while still managing to exude warmth, comfort, and charisma.
Rose’s Luxury is Barack Row’s newest gem, with a gorgeous open kitchen, a rustic downstairs dining room and a casual upstairs bar. The strands of sparkling lights above the dining room are a charming and whimsical touch, as is the neon sign reading “awesome,” hung jauntily in the space connecting the two dining areas on the first floor. A table for larger groups is at the far end of the dining room, and stools adorn the open kitchen for diners who want an up close and personal view of what they are most certainly about to stuff their faces.
The menu is simple in its perfection; there are only 16 items, each one better than the last. Popcorn soup, Silverman’s signature dish (or, at least one of his signature dishes!) is a creamy concoction of corn and lobster; decorated with freshly popped popcorn. The potato bread he serves straight out of the oven is the perfect mop for sweeping the bowl. As a side note, Brightest Young Things would like to warn you that the potato bread is extremely addictive. Extremely. It might be laced with crack. We aren’t sure. But if you see hoards of people lined up in front of the restaurant waiting for it to open, you will know why.
Moving on to more decadence: Silverman’s pastas are all made in house, and include a fennel gnocchi, a cacio e pepe, and a pasta made with a strawberry tomato sauce. Sounds weird? It is but in the best way. It is rich and savory, but with a distinct berry flavor. The dish highlights Silverman’s talent for combining ingredients in a way that seems impossible, but once executed, lifts all components to something better than the sum of its parts. Other items on the menu include crunchy breadcrumb-enrobed cauliflower served with a house-made Greek yogurt, fried eggplant with slivers of feta cheese, hamachi, shrimp and grits, and crispy octopus. For dessert, an olive oil cake with gelato and sea salt further epitomizes Silverman’s subtle theme of marrying sweet and savory elements.
Guests at the soft opening marveled at the dishes, with one patron calling his brisket “the best [he] had ever had.” Considering Silverman’s stints at famed restaurants Aldea, Momofuku, and 2941, expectations were rather high for his first restaurant. He exceeded them. Ten-fold.
The restaurant will be open for dinner service, Monday through Saturday. For now, they are not taking reservations. Cocktails are in abundance, and the restaurant staff is as friendly and approachable as Silverman himself. Named affectionately after Silverman’s grandmother, Rose’s Luxury is a family affair. Silverman’s parents, his restaurant family, his family of friends, and his loyal diners are all ever present in this adventure he has just embarked upon. Consider joining the family: your taste buds will thank you. Now go get some popcorn soup.