Eatonville closed at the end of 2015. Less than 2 months later, the large space at 2121 14th St NW is reopening as Mulebone.
The space isn’t that much different. If you were expecting a complete revamp, you’re out of luck. Most of the decor is the same. The murals remain. The seats and tables are the same. There’s now a pop-up shop from the Nomad Yard Collectiv near the front.
The best new aspect of Mulebone is their beverage director Evan Cablayan. We raved about Cablayan and his cocktails at Macon in November 2014. They were the best things we drank that year. We remembered them 14 months later, especially his Duck & Fig Julep, so when we recognized Cablayan by his apron, we were very happy to try his punches.
Cablayan’s punches are great. Along with The Gibson and Compass Rose, the 14th and U area is becoming an unofficial punch neighborhood. We sampled Mulebone’s three options: bourbon, milk and bubble. The bourbon punch, made with bourbon, peach, milt, lime juice, cane sugar and orange blossom water, was extremely easy to drink and our favorite. The bubble punch, made with sparking wine, will suit warmer weather. The milk punch, something we would never order, was surprisingly not horrible. We don’t usually associate punch with milk for good reason. The milk punch cocktail is the kind of drink you should order because it’s highly unlikely you’re ever going to want to whip up the six ingredient drink for company.
While we can’t review any specific dishes (come back for a future Taste Test), we can recommend the restaurant’s Script Board, an excellent-for-sharing platter of Virginia ham, sweet potato biscuits, deviled eggs, pickled vegetables, honey and pimento cheese. It’s great for parties of four or more, especially paired with Cablayan’s cocktails.
Mulebone opens tonight, Feb. 12, for dinner. They are currently accepting reservations. Brunch and happy hour are in the works but no dates have been announced.