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Taste Test: Maketto Pop-Up @ Hanoi House
July 16, 2013 | 10:00AM

All words: Brandon Wetherbee
All photos: Stephanie Breijo

Just because you can’t get a reservation for the next three to four weeks doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try. You should try to get a seating at the Maketto pop-up at Hanoi House. People cancel reservations all the time.

Chef Erik Bruner-Yang’s temporary pop-up, and future H Street restaurant/cafe/Durkl retailer, has a comforting goal. “I want people to have dinner at my mom’s house,” according to the chef. Since foodies can’t flock to Bruner-Young’s mom’s house, he’s serving family style dinner and dim sum on 14th St NW for the next three months.

Some of the highlights of the family style meal include the bok lahong (papaya salad) that packs a nice spicy punch and excellent on a hot night.

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The samlah machou young, a pork loin, prawn green onion, taro stem, pineapple, dill, fried garlic and tamaring dish served with broth, would be excellent on a chilly night.

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The saich kroak, a sour sausage stuffed squid with garlic chili fish sauce and herbs, is an ambitious and well-executed way to end dinner service.

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Though you will not need to order dim sum, you will probably want to order some dim sum. We enjoyed the steamed pork bun with sage and eggplant with tofu chile.

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The meal concluded with a palate cleansing Tawainese shaved ice. We’re hoping the H St. version of Maketto will serve this in their cafe.

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